There is a specific kind of call that only the high-altitude alpine passes can make. It’s a call of steep gradients, dramatic rock faces, and asphalt that clings to the edge of the world. This weekend, I decided to escape the stifling humidity of the Veneto plains and answered that call by pointing my front tire north from Pove del Grappa. The mission? A grueling but gorgeous 198 km loop centering around the legendary, wild sentinel of the Lagorai range: Passo Manghen (2,047 m).
If you are looking for a ride that will test your low-speed cornering skills while treating you to some of the most pristine scenery in Trentino, grab your gear and let’s go.
Climbing the Beast: The South Face of the Manghen#
Starting from Pove del Grappa, we warmed up the engines running north through the Valsugana along the Brenta River. But the real game begins once you reach Telve and take the turn-off for the SP31. This is the south face of Passo Manghen (2,047 m), a legendary 23 km climb that rises over 1,500 meters with gradients that regularly reach 10% to 15%.
The lower slopes wind gently through small villages and chestnut groves, but the road quickly gets serious. As you climb higher, the asphalt narrows to the width of a single lane. You are plunged into thick, dark pine forests, sweeping through tight, blind hairpins. The road quality is generally good, but the sheer narrowness demands absolute concentration. In late June, the temperature dropped a refreshing ten degrees as we crossed the tree line into the open pastures. The final five kilometers are a masterpiece of road engineering: a tight sequence of switchbacks hugging the steep grassy flanks, offering jaw-dropping views of the rugged Lagorai peaks.
The Summit and the Descent to Fiemme#
Reaching the top of Passo Manghen (2,047 m) feels like arriving at a sanctuary. Unlike some of the more commercialized Dolomite passes, the Manghen remains raw and wild. There is a tiny, crystal-clear alpine lake just below the summit, a rustic wooden cross, and a small refuge. We parked the bikes and walked up to a nearby panoramic point to soak in the 360-degree theater of rocky crests.
From the summit, we began the descent down the northern side towards Val di Fiemme. The road here is slightly wider but no less dramatic, carving through valleys scarred by the historic Vaia storm, which now open up wide vistas of regenerating mountainsides.
A Rustic Break in Stramentizzo#
By the time we hit the bottom of the descent near Molina di Fiemme, our stomachs were rumbling. We bypassed the busier valley towns and pulled into a quiet picnic area right along the SP31 near Stramentizzo, close to the local lake. We fired up our camping stove and cooked up some pasta with pesto and tuna, then spent some time relaxing on a plaid blanket spread over the grass. It was the perfect moment to stretch the legs, check the bike tires, and enjoy the sound of the wind through the pines.
Gems of the Cembra Valley: Lago di Lases and Earth Pyramids#
With the afternoon sun beginning to dip, we turned south into the Cembra Valley (Val di Cembra). Famous for its dramatic porphyry quarries and steep, hand-built stone terraces covered in vineyards, this valley is a rider’s paradise of flowing, sweeping curves.
Our first stop was the emerald waters of Lago di Lases near Lona-Lases. It’s a quiet alpine lake reflecting the deep green woods surrounding it — a perfect spot for a photo stop.
Just a few kilometers further down the valley, we pulled over to admire the Piramidi di Segonzano (601 m). These earth pyramids are a geological wonder: tall clay pillars capped with giant stone boulders, formed by thousands of years of erosion. Seeing these delicate stone-topped columns rising out of the forest canopy is a surreal experience that you absolutely cannot skip.
The Run Home#
From Segonzano, the road winds smoothly back toward the Piné plateau and Pergine Valsugana. We joined the main SS47 Valsugana highway for a relaxed run back to Bassano del Grappa, ending our loop along Viale Armando Diaz right next to the Brenta River. It was a 198 km journey of pure riding joy; once we reached the finish, we simply said our goodbyes, and each of us headed back to our own homes.
Rider’s Tip: Tackle with Care#
Passo Manghen is not a route for beginners. The south face is exceptionally narrow and has several blind, single-lane corners where you might meet a descending camper or a flock of sheep. Ensure your brakes are in top shape for the descent, watch out for occasional gravel on the asphalt, and always ride ATGATT — even if the valley is scorching, the pass summit will be brisk!
Keep the rubber side down!
Article by your friendly neighborhood nomad.